Hello Everyone! I am super excited to bring you my very FIRST POST EVER!!! Hopefully not my last! LOL! This DIY knockoff Restoration Hardware wood and steel console table is so special to me because not only is the tutorial my very first post, but also it is my first build that I designed the plans for myself! I have built many things with the help of Shanty-2-Chic or Ana White but this was the first time I saw a table I liked, I drew it out, came up with a shopping list and a cut list- all by myself! I still can’t believe I actually DID it and without even wasting any wood! Ha! Surprise Surprise!!!
Ok so I hope y’all aren’t expecting the perfect plans made to download in Google Sketchup because, well I tried, and haven’t succeeded yet in making a full piece of furniture!! I can make a few boards and connect them to a few others but after about 5 or 6 boards, it’s like I start getting tangled in my own mess of fake boards. Sigh. I will get it for you all at some point…just not today or tomorrow for that matter…someday. So here is my version of “plans”…I took alot of pictures to try and document every step, and you can feel free to ask questions if you don’t understand my pictures and instruction! HAHAHA!
My inspiration piece was the Restoration Hardware Wood and Steel Console Table which you can see HERE!
It is such a simple beauty! I love the industrial metal wheels and pipe and the simple lines that I knew even I could recreate, and if I managed to do it, TRUST me, you can too!
Restoration Hardware offered several sizes in this table anywhere from 4ft to I believe 7ft long and with a hefty price tag of $1500 – 1995 plus shipping and taxes! Wowzer! No thank you! My knockoff look-a-like was soooo much cheaper coming in at a grand total of $148.00! Whoop! Whoop! That is for wood, wheels (almost half the cost at $68.00) and pipe, I didn’t include finishing supplies because I already had sand paper, stain, and poly so add a few more bucks for those if you do not already have them!
One more look before we get into the building!
Isn’t she so purdy! I catch myself just starring at her sometimes…it’s not weird…
Let’s get started so you can find yourself starring at your own table and then you won’t think I’m so weird! Well, you still may…
The overall dimensions of the table are 60″W x 16 1/4″D x 36″H
1- 2×2 furring strip – you can buy the shortest length available because you will only need 21 inches of this
2- 1/2″ x 60″ galvanized pipe
4- 1/2″ galvanized pipe caps
4- 6″ steel wheels ( I got mine here: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_40253_40253 ) **you can go with a smaller wheel if you’d like, they make the same wheel in 4 and 5 in. as well**
7/8″ drill bit (for making the holes for the pipe)
2″ regular screws (to secure the planked tabletop to the frame)
2 1/2″ and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
16 – 1 1/2″ hex head screws- mine had a head of 9/16″(for attaching the wheels to the table)
finishing supplies of your choice (sandpaper, stain, and polyurethane)
*Just a note: I do not cut all my wood at first, I start with a certain piece (in this case the legs) and then cut as I go measuring for each additional piece because, well, apparently I missed a lesson or two in school where they taught us how to use rulers/tape measurers and I am off sometimes on my cuts…which can then lead to boards being too short or too long just depending…so I have learned to cut as I go and call my husband to fix my mistakes when they are real bad even though I cut as I go! LOL! But so true!
4 – 2×2 @ 5 1/4″
6 – 2×3 @ 56 1/2″
2 – 2×3 @ 11 1/4″
4 – 2×6 @ 27 3/4″
3 – 1×6 @ 59 1/2″
2 – 1×6 @ 11 1/4″
1- 1×12 @ 56 1/2″
1- 1×12 @ 51 1/2″
Ok! To get started you will cut all the “legs” of the table:
Once you have them cut you can procede to cut the middle 2×2’s.
NOTE : Make sure to measure your 1×12 before you cut your 2×2’s, my cut list is based off of a 1×12 with an actual measurement of 11 1/4, if your 1×12 measures 11 1/2 you will need to adjust your 2×2’s to 5 1/2 inches instead of the 5 1/4 and your 2×3 x 11 1/4 will need to be changed to be cut at 11 1/2 as well!
Your 2×2 pieces will need two pocket holes drilled to attach them to the 2×6’s or “legs”- you will need to drill two 1 1/2 in holes with your Kreg Jig on each 2×2 and then use 2 1/2 in screws to attach!
For anyone not aware of a Kreg Jig, it is simply a drill guide to drill pocket holes which then conceal the screws that attach your boards! I do not have a fancy schmancy Kreg Jig, just a simple little Kreg Jig Jr
and for $39.99 you can’t beat what all it can do! (you can tell mine is abused…which is be.a.u.tiful because that means it’s being used and I am building 🙂 It can do anything the more expensive models can do but with a little needed elbow grease to clamp it onto your board! If price isn’t an issue, then by all means go for a better model, when I bought this it was for my first project and I wasn’t sure I would actually be able to build something so I didn’t want to go all out, I went cheap! Any way you do it, you won’t be disappointed, I promise! Go grab one from Home Depot, Lowe’s, Woodcraft or HERE!
So to get to the fun part: to drill your holes, get your Kreg and set it for the width of wood you are working with, this 2×2 is 1 1/2 inches (actual width) so we set our gray slides to 1 1/2.
Next you’ll set your drill bit to 1 1/2
Then all you have to do is clamp your kreg jig to your board and drill it baby…
(the picture above is just for an example)
then you will have beautiful holes like mine…okay well yours may look better because mine are a little off from each other… no big deal…this doesn’t affect the job it’s supposed to do! I’m sure of it 😉
Now that we have our first holes drilled, add some glue and screw in your 2 1/2 inch pocket screws (you can use regular screws but Kreg makes awesome square head screws that are almost impossible to strip…thank you Lord… and your Kreg Jig set will come with a long square head screwdriver bit) … Viola… that was soooo easy! Now we can sit back relax, grab a drink, pat yourself on the back, and celebrate this amazing victory… Okay, sometimes I like to celebrate Every Step Of The Way!
Now we shall cut our 2×3 x 56 1/2
* An important note on this step: make sure your 2×3’s are cut no longer than 56 1/2″, they can be slightly shorter but if you go any longer than 56 1/2 your pipe caps will not be able to screw onto the ends of the pipe- but if you cut them a hair shorter, you can always have your pipe cut down a smidgen and rethreaded (I would know because I totally had to do this)!!! Alamo Hardware rocks because they did this for me several times without complaint! I told you I kind of have a problem measuring!! But it all worked out, although this will not be the case if you cut them too long, you will then have to buy a whole new, and longer pipe- so don’t do that! Well, unless you want to, who am I to try and stop you?!
So your 2×3’s will end up looking like the ones below with two pocket holes drilled on each end, again still using 1 1/2 in holes ( because the actual width of the wood is 1 1/2) and later we will attach them to our legs using 2 1/2 in. screws.
The 2×3’s will become the front and back edge of all of your shelves, so once your 1×12’s are cut, we can drill pocket holes around all four sides to attach the 2×3’s, you must adjust your Kreg Jig at this point because your 1×12’s actual width is 3/4″ so we adjust the gray slides to 3/4
and then we have to adjust the drill bit to 3/4
Sorry for the blurry picture, it looked much clearer before I uploaded it! Not sure what that’s all about!
So now all we have to do is clamp and drill! The 1×12’s are going inside the 2×3’s to make the complete shelves! I did the bottom and middle shelves slightly different from each other. Here’s where I put the pocket holes.
As you can see, on the left side of my 56 1/2″ board I accidently drilled the wrong holes so I have a total of 6 holes along that one side but you only need 3!
It’s time to join the 1×12’s to the 2×3’s to make the shelves, but do you remember in the cut list, the 2×3’s cut @ 11 1/4 (or 11 1/2 depending on the actual size of your 1×12) we will attach these two boards to the ends of the 51 1/2 in board…sounds a little like, “what?” just see the pictures down below! Here are the 2×3’s @ 11 1/4, they need 1 1/2 in. pocket holes two on each end.
We will attach these to the 51 1/2 in. 1×12
After gluein’ and screwin’ all the boards together it should look something like this
…please excuse the MESS, I tried to crop all the junk out of the pic but it didn’t work, I can’t help it that the garage is storage, a trash can late at night when I don’t want to go outside to the big trash cans, and home to EVERYTHING I am tired of looking at inside! Yes, you have to be insane to be able to work in these conditions! Enough said!
Anywho, that’s what your middle shelf will look like after attaching all the boards together!
The bottom shelf will be a little simpler because we won’t have the end 2×3’s **even though you could adjust the plans and put them on the ends of both your shelves if you would like, totally up to you! You would just cut both 1×12’s to the 51 1/2 in. and you would need to cut two more 2×3’s at 11 1/4 (or 11 1/2)**
But here’s the way I did it, my bottom shelf does not have the end 2×3’s
After this point, the pace really picked up and I didn’t get to take as many pictures as I would have liked but I tried to capture what I could and I will try to explain anything that I missed taking a picture of!
So from here we get to see the table really coming together! We have to attach the shelves to the “legs” we built earlier. It was dark at this point which is why I started rushing… mosquitos are really bad after sundown here and for some reason they LOVE my blood…I am soooo SWEEEET I guess!! LOL!
You can see the middle shelf doesn’t have the 2×2 to fill in the space which is how we want it! Let’s take a peak at our inspiration piece so we know we are chugging along correctly and to boost our spirits because if you live in Texas like me you are questioning if it’s worth it to continue, your entire outfit is drenched in sweat at this point and you are desperately trying to keep the sweat pouring off of your face from getting the wood wet and warping it before you have a chance to even finish the thing! HAHA!
Yep! Looking good! Almost done! Can’t give up yet!
So the next step is to add 2×3’s to the top, they will be flush with the 2×6 legs
Okay, STOP judging…LOL…this is the ONLY pic I had to show what I meant by them being flush…I am so embarrassed by the disaster in the background, but look, I’m willing to sacrifice my dignity to help you make this table! ;0 In case you are lost in the mess of this photo, look at the very top right corner, that’s where the flushness is taking place! Yes flushness is a word in my dictionary and yes I do NEED those boxes in the photo for something, I don’t know what, but something! HA!
So if you can stop laughing at my poor soul having to work in this garage…we will get the rest of this table built!
Next you have to assemble the top and for some reason I did not take a picture of this very important step…UGH! How did I miss this one…I guess I just got really excited because I was almost done and totally forgot! My apologies! The boards will be pocket-holed together along the length of the board a lot like we did the 1×12’s earlier only the 1×6’s will not need any holes on the ends of the boards and will only need pocket holes along 1 side of the board! So you just drill holes all down the length of your first board and your second board doesn’t need any holes drilled in it, and then you will drill holes all along the length of your 3rd board on the side facing your 2nd board…did that make any sense? Here is an example picture, this is just a sample, I took to help you see what I am trying to say!
Once you have your 1×6’s screwed together you can attach it to the table! You will just flip the planked boards over to rest beautifully on the top frame you made out of 2×3’s, you will need to drill pilot holes for your screws, going up through your 2×3’s then you will screw the screws in! Woah! What? Who? Since I forgot to get a picture of this step, this was the best I could do!
Last thing to do before you sand and stain is drilling the holes for your pipe, I was so excited for this part but the excitement quickly faded trip after trip to the hardware store to purchase many drill bits before FINALLY getting it right, and lucky for you I did that dirty work so you can easily get the perfect one! A 7/8″ drill bit is perfect for the 1/2″ pipe, even though I didn’t figure that out until after I drilled mine with the 15/16″, here’s the one I bought
Yes, I bought pretty much every size from 1/2″ to 15/16″ except a 7/8″ but I am certain that the 7/8″ would be absolutely right on, because the 3/4″ was a hair too small and the 15/16″ was a hair too big! Woopsies! I had already drilled it! It’s not too large to be a problem just not as snug as I would have liked!
I clamped a board on the inside of the 2×6 while drilling from the outside to avoid the wood splintering which usually will happen as the drill bit exits the wood on the other side when you use this large of drill bit on soft wood like pine. I had my hubby do the drilling because I cannot drill a straight hole for the life of me, this doesn’t usually matter on something small, but a hole of this size and we would have big problems if it wasn’t straight!
After I told him to straighten out his drill…Haha… we got all four holes drilled! Yea! You will want to drill your holes only about an inch off of the back 2×6’s (which ever you choose to be your back, there really isn’t a front or back until you drill the holes) but if you buy wood like me…not very well… you may want to hide certain flaws in the “back”! The holes will be drilled directly in the center between the top of the table and the middle shelf and then directly in the center of the middle shelf and the bottom shelf! If that made sense! See pic below!
Hopefully that helps you to see where the bars are!
Now you can fill in any holes that need to be filled with wood filler and sand this bad boy down! Yep, I can taste it, it’s so close to being done, yet so FAR since the most D R E A D E D PART IS HERE! I started with 80 grit, which I normally don’t do, but I had slim pickins for wood at Lowe’s and Home Depot so some of the wood was rather UGLY! Then I moved up to 120 grit and F.I.N.A.L.L.Y. I was at the point of 220grit… whew! Sanding is the WORST PART of a project! Glad I made it through that!
Now the staining is one of my FAV parts because it takes your raw, ugly wood and makes it look AMAZING, and after just ONE coat of this FABULOUS stain! Can you believe it, someone must have stolen my wish book at Rustoleum! One coat! HA! BTW I like very dark stains because they hide any imperfections…not that I ever need to cover anything…shhhh, don’t tell anyone my secret!
Alrighty then, you can move on to the last, and again another, not so fun part of the finishing process…the polyurethane…UGH..I am not a fan of this part, but I have to say after finding this Minwax Wipe-On Poly it has made this step So. Much. Easier. This has officially removed poly from my sh* list! I used to HATE HATE HATE polying anything because, if you got too much on your brush it was obvious exactly where you had put it, if you shook the can and got air bubbles, well your piece of furniture then had air bubbles…it was impossible for someone as impatient and crazy as me to ever get it right! But this stuff, O my, you just put it on a rag and wipe…pinch…yes I am awake…it is for real! I still can’t believe it sometimes!
So after three coats, let it dry then add your pipe…just slide it through your perfectly drilled holes…because you probably let your husband do it like me or you are superwoman with a drill 😉 and then place the caps on each end to keep it in place
Did you notice that I did not fill in my pocket holes underneath the top shelf! Who is ever going to look under there?!
Last but not least, after everything else has been done, you can flip this baby over and give it some wheels! You will need the hex head screws that are 1 1/2 in. long…Luckily, this part is pretty simple: the 2- 1×6 @ 11 1/4 boards are to be placed on the underside of the table, the plates of the wheels are 3 1/2″ x 2 3/8″ since this is wider than our 2×3, you add the 1×6 to make a level surface for the wheel to be attached to. Apply some glue and the hex screws will keep the 1×6’s in place once they have been screwed in. You will want to clamp it while you pre-drill your holes and then screw them in!
Oh, after all that hard work and sweat, maybe tears…LOL…bring that baby inside and decorate her up!!! She’s all yours, feel free to stare!!!!
I hope you enjoy building your table and feel free to ask questions in the comments or use the contact page at the top! To keep up with all of my projects make sure to subscribe to my posts via email! Follow me on and Instagram for sneak peaks of future projects! No matter what you BUILD or CRAFT, I hope you LOVE every minute of IT!
Lots of Love,